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| Good site, finally stumbled upon it. I have a question regarding notching a 6x6 post at a corner that will pass through to become a railing post. At the corner, I will also have 2 2x10's to become a beam that will also be my rim joist, and I will also have a side joist that will all intersect at the post. Is is acceptable to notch one side for the beam, and also the side of the post to let the side joist rest on it and attach to the beam? I'm just trying to find a detail or idea of how to go about using that post as a railing post also and having the beam flush with the joist with joist hangers. Mike
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| Hi Mike, thanks for your question and welcome to the decks.com site. You can notch the post to accept the 2x10 double beam. However, I would not notch the 6x6 post for the entire 3" depth of the doubled 2x lumber. Notch 1-1/2" only for one of the beams. Place one of the 2x10's in the notch and nail. Then place the second beam over the first beam and lag or carriage bolt the assembly at each post location. Then nail the two boards together in a pattern of 4 nails in line vertically every 16" apart. The 1-1/2" deep notches will provide adequate load carrying capability without cutting thru most of the post. You can notch for a joist also. But each time you remove material you weaken the post. Notches can sometimes act as stress relievers in the wood causing the post to warp. See if you can limit the number and depth of the notches.
Anderson Pro Carpentry
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| Ken, Your suggestion to notch the post only 1 1/2" was because he wanted to also use the post for the railing, right? If you are not using the post for railing, just for beam support, would you notch it a full 3"? Thanks, Jay
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Check with your local codes before you only get 1/2 of your beam bearing. Around here you must have full bearing on your beam. But you can still do as Ken has advised but you need to attach a 2x6 to the 6x6 post to pick up the bearing of the beam. Getting that 2x6 into the post base may cause an issue though. You would need to run it past the post base so it sits right on your concrete pad. In that case you need a ground contact rated ACQ 2x6.
Robert ShawColorado Deck and Framing - When Perfection Is Demanded http://www.cdfcontracting.com
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We too have to provide full bearing of both 2x beams. I failed to mention the 2x6. Sorry guys and thanks Robert. Huskerjay, yes full depth of 3".
Anderson Pro Carpentry
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| Thanks for the information. I think I have a couple of options: 1. Instead of trying to use the deck post for the rail post, I can make them separate and bolt the rail post as you normally would. 2. Could I use the deck post as the rail post and just attach the side joist to the beam or post with a joist hanger? 3. Attach the side joist to the side of the post using a corner hanger and bolting through the post? On a similar issue, I'm also going to have a pergola above a portion of the deck, and I have the same issue of a side joist and beam in the same location and trying to run the deck post all the way through and use it as the pergola post. I'm just not sure of how I would go about doing that. Also, my span between the pergola posts will be almost 14' (the other end would be attached to the house). Is that even possible, since there are no "charts" for beam spans for pergolas. Obviously they are not supporting near the load that the deck itself will support. The posts would be 6x6 cedar.
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| Hi Mike, I like for first idea of having the main post just support the deck and add posts just for the railing. The pergola posts can be mounted to the deck framing. You will need to add blocking between the joist and sandwich the post on all for sides. Then use 1/2" carriage bolts thru the sandwich.
Anderson Pro Carpentry
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| Thanks for the help and suggestions, very much appreciated. I don't know if doubling up the joist at that location is really necessary, but for the cost of two extra 2x8's, it's worth the piece of mind. I definitely agree with adding the blocking between the joists at that location.
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