﻿<?xml version='1.0' encoding='UTF-8'?><rss version="2.0" xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/"><channel><title>Decks.com / Public Forum / Ask The Deck Experts  / Rehabbing an old deck / Latest Posts</title><generator>InstantForum.NET v4.1.2</generator><description>Decks.com</description><link>http://www.decks.com/</link><webMaster>support@decks.com</webMaster><lastBuildDate>Sat, 22 Nov 2008 00:33:23 GMT</lastBuildDate><ttl>20</ttl><item><title>Rehabbing an old deck</title><link>http://www.decks.com/Topic4768-21-1.aspx</link><description>We're rehabbing a 20+ year old deck on a house in Northern Arizona.  Very hot in summer; often subfreezing in winter.  The original deck was nailed doug fir and a constant headache with popping nails and splitting planks.  We hope the original substructure can be redecked; its very heavily built but the 4x8 joists are on 24" ctrs. The original deck was 25 x 40 feet, we're reducing it's size to about 10 x 40 ft. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;We'd appreciate help with following questions:&lt;br&gt;1.  Are there any composite plank systems that will stand up to the AZ sun better than wood, not make the deck a hot griddle, and can be installed on 24" ctr joists?  &lt;br&gt;2.  Are concealed fasteners practical when much of the deck has limited access from beneath?&lt;br&gt;3.  If we stick with douglas fir, is "select" the proper grade?&lt;br&gt;4. Though rot isn't an issue, is there any advantage to treated wood regarding checking or spliiting?&lt;br&gt;5.  If we stick with 2x6 fir and conventional top-screwing, what's the most effective screw type and material?&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Thanks</description><pubDate>Fri, 28 Mar 2008 13:35:50 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>DennisC</dc:creator></item></channel></rss>