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anchoring bottom posts for stair railing

hiebster — Wed, 18 Nov 2009 16:50:29 GMT

When I build steps I've been bolting the posts to the stringers at the second step so that I have more stringer to bolt to and can place the bolts further apart. This makes for a very solid post although I don't really like the way it looks. I think it looks better to have the posts right at the bottom step but then there is only 5 inches of stringer to bolt to. Since I never set these posts in the ground it isn't very solid this way.

Just wondering how other guys do it and if there was any advice..

thanks

deck stairs specs.

AndyM — Sun, 15 Nov 2009 19:26:47 GMT

Hi guys...please help

Total height is 53 inches, run is NO MORE than 60 and NO LESS than 55 inches.

please advise to specs for making stairs. How many steps and how high is each step. they are to be 10 inches with an inch of nose. i think code is no higher a step than 7 3/4. but im not sure.

cheers for help

Andy

Deck stairs..help please friends

AndyM — Sat, 14 Nov 2009 19:38:37 GMT

hi there chaps...wonder if you wouldn't mind helping me out and doing a little math too.

my total rise is 53 inches and i have a run of no more than 60 inches. I can vary it from between 56 and 60.

How many risers and at what specification do i need to make the stringers?

thanks chaps.

Requesting Design Check

ericb1960 — Tue, 10 Nov 2009 11:03:28 GMT

Hello,

First time deck builder here. I tried to attach my design file but was unable to. The link below should bring it up. I based this design on the "Prescriptive Residential Wood Deck Construction Guide". I just wanted to know what you guys think. Do I have enough beams? Any other improvements?

Thanks for any advice you can give.

[url=http://www.scribd.com/doc/22337585/Deck-Design][/url]

window height

jimbob6563 — Sat, 07 Nov 2009 16:09:36 GMT

I would like to know what is the minimum height from a deck to the bottom of a window according to the IBC.

Technique to build a support beam to an existing deck

illanrob — Fri, 06 Nov 2009 14:01:24 GMT

I am in the process of reinforcing my 16 wide by 12 long deck 6 feet above grade. I am adding a (3) 2 by 10 beam near the end, 10 ft from ledger board. This deck has been suspended by (2) 4by4 posts at the 12 ft end. I am surprised that it has not collapsed, perhaps since it does not get any use after building the patio below 8 years ago.

The new beam with three 2by10 on 6by6 post 10.5 ft apart should support the existing 2by8 12 foot joists to Code. 10.5ft is the max span for 2by8 and the new beam is at 10ft. This leaves overhangs of 2 and 2.5 feet on the 3 sides.

I can foresee problems building the beam on the ground and then lifting it onto the notch of the 6by6 post. Planning to lift each 2by10 individually, securing it first, then lifting the second, then lag bolt those two, lift the third, continue with the lag bolts. Then slide the notched 6by6 underneath the beam while lifting the deck up a bit with a hydraulic jack.

The bottom of the existing 2by8 are nearly level, 0.5 inch error at most using a 6 foot long level. Hence, will have to shim the gaps between new beam and existing joists.

Is shimming these gaps OK?

Robert Illan
Huntsville, AL USA

Renforcing My Deck

fatlip — Tue, 27 Oct 2009 16:00:26 GMT

Were in the process of reinforcing my deck. Need some help with how we are doing it. First off the spa is a Hotsprings Jetsetter, 95 lbs per square foot required. The deck is 16 in on center, 2 by 8 joists,each joist 10 feet wide, joists running width. One side is on notched 4 by 4 posts every 5 ft, the other side is on band board, 2 by 10, bolted to house. We are putting four, 6 by 6 posts notched under joists in middle of tub, in a straight line. We are also doubling the 2 by 8 joists under the spa area going the 10 foot width, as what is all ready there. So my question is, should the 6 by 6 posts be straight in a row or should the posts be in a square around the spa. If the straight in the row will work that's good for me, since the holes are dug already, but not set and pored yet.

This deck runs between the main house (brick) and addition ( frame/ vinyl ) that was built 20 years ago. Deck is 10 feet wide by 40 ft long between houses (spa area)and 10 feet wide by 38 feet long, going down side of addition..

The new floor decking is the plastic Azek and is ok 16 in on center.

P.S My brother and I are doing this work, he has built hundreds of houses and knows his stuff, I just want to be sure the structure is done in a safe manor and not void my warranty if not supported correct.
The spa will be delivered next week.

Any info on this issue would be great,
Thanks,

Rick

Vinyl Railings

jay20nj — Thu, 29 Oct 2009 15:53:27 GMT

I am pricing out decking and several contactors have suggested different railings. Does anyone have an opinion about any of the below vinyl railings with regard to price and quality?

Endurance
Superior
Shoreline

3-way framing connection (rim/beam/post) on deck w/o cantilever

DaveG_NJ — Thu, 29 Oct 2009 06:56:02 GMT

I'm building a low-level deck (no room for a cantilever) and the plans show the beams and rim joists attached to posts. At several places in the plans, there are as many as five members sitting on the post.

I'm using 6x6 support posts and planned to notch them for the beam attachment. But how do I make the proper attachment when I have so many pieces coming together over a post?

In the first picture below, the rim joist is shown at the top. I initially thought about using an inside corner hanger to attach the rim joist to the post and beam and having it go next to the post, but the plans seem to indicate that I should cut the rim and make it flush with the post. Would that make the rim too weak (I'm thinking of when the handrails go on).

The next picture is where five members (a doubled-up 2x.beam at and angle and a deck joist come together over a post. Are the plans not to be taken too literally here? I'm just struggling to figure out how to tie all the framing together AND to the post.

Thanks for any help.

Brand new deck, when to seal (Michigan climate)

jtkz13 — Wed, 28 Oct 2009 15:34:11 GMT

We just had a 500 sq ft Cedar deck installed (treated Pine frame underneath).

Of course now in Michigan its starting to get cold and rainy every other day or so.

Can the experts reccommend if:

I should seal it now or wait until spring?

What is the best seal/stain to help keep the natural color and prevent it from going grey?

Any other tips or advice for maintanance?

I will get some pics up later today.

Thanks

cable railing

Dusty — Wed, 28 Oct 2009 04:26:52 GMT

i have a new deck built around a new verandah/pergola, i want to put up cable railing and ive figured out most of the construction details but im not sure on 1. how best to attach the top rail to the posts ie nails, screws both? and is it structurally ok to drill holes through the verandah posts for the cables, especially worried about the corner posts that will have holes coming from both directions. thanks for any help

outdoor temperature

tyme — Sun, 25 Oct 2009 11:16:20 GMT

I want to re-stain and re-seal the older outdoor deck at one of my properties in the mountains of West Virginia. How late in the year can it be done? What's the lowest outdoor temperature it can be done successfully? i.e., don't do it when it's below such-and-such a temperature.
Thanks

building a pergola

wildbill27 — Sun, 19 Jul 2009 16:39:03 GMT

I am building a pergola off my house. It is 25ft wide and 14ft deep. can I use 2x6x16 joists or do I need 2x8 or higher?

patio cover / pergala

kenw. — Wed, 21 Oct 2009 21:31:40 GMT

I would like to build a Cedar patio cover / pergola. I need help with the beam size and material. (solid beam or 2 joists doubled up)
My patio area is 21'L x 11'W. I would like to cover as much as possible. what should I use for sufficient beam support for this length??? I was planning to use 2'x6'x12' joists, and 4"x6" posts (4 one per corner).
appriciate any help.

beam size substituion

finnbear — Wed, 21 Oct 2009 17:25:36 GMT

I am building a 10'x13" deck. All wood is treated DF -L#2. The joists are 16'OC all 2x10" (ledger, rims, header). I have (2) 4x6" posts 10.5' OC. The beam is (2) 2x12" x 13'.

Can I replace the beam with (3) 2x8", if I add (2) 2x6" to the posts to match the 6"?

Barry

Pylons for deck posts

alltekseal — Tue, 20 Oct 2009 23:20:18 GMT

I would like to use the heavy round pylons like you might see on a pier or dock as deck posts that extend up and also serve as parts of the rail. Can I bury these and concrete them in, rather than set them on the footer? Is there any sort of post base connector for them? How can I safely "notch in" drop beams so that they can extend up and not have the beam sitting right on top?

deck framing

dsm0274 — Wed, 21 Oct 2009 10:12:38 GMT

i started building my deck that is 2 levels fonally--have the beams attached to the post with simpson strong tie post cap connections bcs2-2/4 problem i didn't realize is how much extra ground clerance is needed with theses items the smaller deck is 13 feet wide and extends 10 feet from the house would it be acceptable to do the bolt through method on the post deck will only be a few inches off the groun. how much clearance is needed for acceptable clearnce under the double 2x8 beams?? with post caps i will have to dig down almost 8 inches to fit the beams in and i am worried about how close this is to the ground

deck renovation

neon guy — Tue, 13 Oct 2009 18:03:52 GMT

I'm wondering about the pro's and con's of overlaying the existing deck with new boards in a diagonal pattern...?? is it no problem or does it cause problems...??

cedar tree trunks for posts?

vince44 — Mon, 12 Oct 2009 14:05:56 GMT

I have many cedar trees on my property. Once dry, is there a downside to using them for posts? Deck is to be 9ft. above grade and trunks are 10in. dia. on the small end at least. Thanks.

NEED FLAT DECK

jmann989 — Sat, 10 Oct 2009 12:14:37 GMT

PIC OF BACK OF UGLY YARD AND BAD DOG WE NEED HELP ATTACHED PICTURE BELOW
ANY IDEAS WILL BE GREAT
THANK YOU
JAY

Deck Finising Questions

ramaro13 — Tue, 29 Sep 2009 10:26:05 GMT

Hi,

Thanks or the great forum.

I getting my deck re-surfaced. It is a 2nd story deck. For the surface we are going with Veranda composite (grey) and for the railings, we are going with pressure treated wood. The cost of the composite railings was too prohibitive. The original structure is intact except that it is redwood colored.

My wife and I would like the railings and structure to be white. I have been reading about all of the various products and I'm kind of stuck as to what I should be using. The structure has already been painted or stained (not sure which) and the reailins will be brand new. I want a solid color...just looking ofr a good product recommendation. Someone told me to use porch paint on the structure because it has already been painted or stained and to use Olympic solid deck stain on the railings because it allows you to not have to wait 80 days for the wood to dry.

Can someone let me know what they think or recommend a product to use?

Thanks,

Rob

joist attachment to girder for deck

rired — Sun, 04 Oct 2009 19:46:18 GMT

I know most deck framing calls for a ledger board attached to house and the a beam or girder at some point away from house with joists attached to ledger board at house end with the other end of joist resting on top of girder. I would like to know if it is acceptable to attach joist to side of girder with joist hangers rather than rest it on top?

z flashing on rim board

foresthiker — Sat, 03 Oct 2009 17:27:34 GMT

When attaching a rim board I used a Z galvanized flashing that lips up under the siding and drops over the drop of the rim board. What do you do if you are running a double rim board. Do they make a Z flash piece for double the thickness of a rim board, double the 2 x 8 size?

Making a gate with vinyl fencing

Pat the Rat — Thu, 10 Sep 2009 13:57:43 GMT

I've got my deck outfitted with vinyl railing all around, but I need to make a gate for it. Should I just buy the 4x4 vinyl sleeves and put another railing between them and hinge it? Seems to me I'd need quite a big gap for the gate to be able to swing shut without hitting the corner of the sleeve since it's 4" wide. I have a bunch of railing ballisters left from installing the railing and I was wondering if I could construct something using them, but I wouldn't know what to use to hold them in place if I didn't buy a new section of railing. I thought of using vinyl downspout, but it has the ridges on it and looks too much like a gutter. I'd have to put wood inside it too, no doubt, to add strength.

concrete piers

sndybrggs — Thu, 01 Oct 2009 16:52:01 GMT

I hired a contractor to rebuild a two-story deck that serves as an entrance to an upstairs apartment. I wanted to enlarge the width of the deck 10.75". Therefore, I needed to put in new piers for the new 6 x 6 posts to rest on. The contractor decided to only go down 24" and pour concrete in the new hole and connect the concrete to the existing pier that has a depth of 32". Code for this area is 32". He said he hosed off the existing pier to allow good adhesion for the new concrete. I do not trust that this method will protect me from having the ground heave and move my deck? Is there any way of knowing if this method will work? If not, now that I have the concrete poured, is there a way of fixing the problem without tearing out all the concrete?

Composite deck board spacing

Pat the Rat — Wed, 19 Aug 2009 11:10:55 GMT

I've seen a video on TOH about installing composite decking and he says to space them 1/4" apart. That seems like a pretty big gap to me. A lot of deck builders now say (at least with regular wood anyway) to put them tight against each other as they will shrink when they age. Would that hold true for composite decking as well?

Composite versus cedar or pressure treated

christech — Wed, 16 Sep 2009 20:45:00 GMT

I'm on the board of a townhome association responsible for maintaining decks. Our decks are approaching 20 years old and the supporting structres are sound but the decking and rails show wear. These are all wood and the decks are all on the 1st level of the homes. The span of supporting beams are no more than 15 ". We had trhe supports inspected and they are sound. One of our members suggested replacing the decks and rails with a composite to reduce the staining and repairs we have to make. I am all for cutting maintenance cost but I hear these materials can mold, crack etc and have to be washed which our homeowners won't want. In addition some are hot on bare feet and some bounce. The other issue is that we have large trees in some areas and bright sun in others. I've seen composite look very dirty in shaded areas so what are the risks. Would we be safer going with cedar....a proven product or is composite worth the risk? There are alot of homeowners concerned. Also, can you tear up the wood decking and lay down any composite on a wood supporting structure.

looking for a web site that describes how to do the footers

z_zk_z — Mon, 28 Sep 2009 19:59:28 GMT

Hi,

I am looking for a web site that describes how to do the footers, like running string, having same level for all four footers, and lined up with each other.

Thanks,
ZK

Hot Tub Support

JimQ — Tue, 29 Sep 2009 09:15:21 GMT

I am moving a hot tub to a new area on my cement patio. The hot tub is 8x8' and should weigh around 6000 lbs filled. My problem is that the cement patio has a 2 inch incline in the area I want to put the hot tub. I would prefer something more portable than poured cement of gravel to level this area. I understand the hot tub needs to be fully supported over the entire bottom. I was thinking of tapering treated 2x4s and spacing them at 12" then covering this with 3/4 exterior plywood. Any other ideas would be appreciated. Thanks for your assistance

Size of footer to support future screened porch

sleepy hollow — Mon, 21 Sep 2009 17:22:22 GMT

I am building a 17 x 21 deck. I have my permit and have started digging the holes. My soil is Northern Virginia clay.

On one half of the deck I plan to add a screened porch with 6/12 gable roof next year. I will have to get another permit to add that. The problem is that I want to size the footers and beams now to acommodate the later roof and porch load.

I plan to build the roof with beam and rafters (aka "stick built"). The county tells me they will be looking at the load on the ends of the beam. So, I have added a footer directly below the location of the roof beam. (The other end of the beam will be attached to the house - not concerned with that at this stage.)

How big should I make the footer to allow for the roof load? The county code requires 24 inch deep footers 18" in diameter at least 8 inches thick.

For example, if I bring the 18 inch footer all the way to ground level (24 inches thick) will that be enough? Should I make that larger in diameter or deeper?

I have 9 footers all togetheer for the deck. 5 footers make up the base for the posts and beam at 15.5 feet from the deck, 4 footers make up the post and beam at 9 feet from the deck. I plan to use 2x10's for joists and double 2x 10's for the beams. Also I will use a 2X12 for the ledger board.

This deck wil be very solid IMHO. But will it qualify for the porch later without modification?

The county told me they considered a roof built as I plan to as bearing 1/2 the load on the beam and 1/4 of the load at each wall.

Thanks.

Deck Stain

ramaro13 — Fri, 25 Sep 2009 14:25:02 GMT

Hi,

Thanks for all the great info on the site! It is extremely useful.

I was going to re surface my deck but instead decided to hire someone. My wife and I chose Veranda (grey color) decking to replace the existing deck boards. The existing deck boards had to be replaced beacuse the previous owner (we have lived there for 2 years) did not maintain it. It is a 2nd story deck so, the structure is in excellent shape and visible.

For the railing, my wife and I decided to go with pressure treated wood beacuse of the expense of the railing systems. As a result, I would lie to stain the railings and the structure/fascia (which is currently a red color) to a white. I'm kind of new at this so and getting confused with all the various product offerings that are out there. Since teh structure was already painted/stained, I was told that I should use a porch paint (behr or similiar) and for the railings, I was going to use a solid stain (Olympic says you don't have to wait after the install).

Is this okay to do? Can someone recommend what would be the best combination/product to use in this instance?

I appreciate your help.

Thanks,

Rob

Installing subfloor over 5/4 treated deck boards

robw1312 — Thu, 24 Sep 2009 16:15:15 GMT

I am building a screened in porch in North Carolina, and will be tiling the floor. My question is about installing the T&G subfloor over wet deck boards--is there any issue with the drying out of the boards below- and shrinking?

Thanks!

attaching railings

Joke — Tue, 22 Sep 2009 09:08:17 GMT

Are railing top and bottom rails just toe-nailed between 4x4 posts? Or is there another way, besides brakets?

Now that I've stained my deck (solid color) should I also waterproof it?

Steve598 — Wed, 29 Jul 2009 16:41:21 GMT

I stained my deck using a solid color using Sherwin-Williams Deckscapes. This stain has built-in waterproofing and UV protection.

I used this stain before, but it failed where run off from my roof/gutters would hit the deck. Thus I'm thinking I need to add extra protection. According to the number of waterproofing stars, this stain is a three star. Thompson's is a 5 star.

Questions:
1) Should I use a waterproofer (like Thompsons Water Seal) ON TOP of my new stained deck?
2) Or is this over-kill?

Size of footer to support future screened porch

sleepy hollow — Mon, 21 Sep 2009 17:24:40 GMT

Attaching a Ledger to Web Trusses

BillinSC — Sat, 19 Sep 2009 21:16:48 GMT

My home has web trusses and, therefore, no rim joist to attach the ledger board directly to. The end of the web trusses do consist of three stacked 2x4s that I could bolt the ledger into. Is this a safe and satisfactory method? I haven't measured, but the trusses appear to be on 16" centers. If I need to install blocking, what size lumber (2x8, 2x10) should I utilize and how should I attach between the web trusses (i.e. toenail?) for effective support?

Thanks for the great site...I've learned a ton just from reading old posts.
Bill

Advice/Help Please....Permits/Inspections???...Deck is Up

mac21 — Wed, 16 Sep 2009 11:39:48 GMT

I had my siding replaced and the same guys said they could build a deck for me also, so I went with them. I assumed that the contractors would take care of the permit and know how to build a deck to code, but I was wrong.

Just about everything they did I had them re-do because it did not meet code or was crappy. Throughout this process (2 months) I've learned a ton on how to build a deck to my local codes. I ended up settling somewhere in the middle with these guys because they could not finish getting the steps or railings right.

So my main question is, what are my options since I did not have a permit? Can I finish the deck to code myself and have an inspector look at it? I just don't want to have a big problem when I sell this house or if something happens on the deck.

Thanks for all your help, this has been a nightmare and I learned my lesson but please guide me out of this mess.

Small Crack in ledger board

scottl — Sun, 13 Sep 2009 13:31:07 GMT

Hello,

Looking for comments on the attached pictures. At two of the bolts in our ledger board we've just recently shown some cracking. It's part of a 24x12 wood deck... about 5 years old.

To fix, I was planning on adding bolts (staggered) in each of the adjacent bays.
- Drill out 9/16" hole, insert 1/2" thru-bolt with washers, galvanized.

Technically, the bolt design doesn't currently meet the most recent updated standards anyhow (just a bit too far spaced apart).

From a structural perspective, should I have any concerns about adding bolts?

From a safety perspective, any concerns about drilling into the board without having the joists jacked up?

Thanks

Making a gate with vinyl fencing

Pat the Rat — Thu, 10 Sep 2009 13:57:09 GMT

Concrete Piers aren't level. How to fix?

mboltuc — Wed, 26 Aug 2009 21:13:37 GMT

I have 4 concrete piers that I poured and screwed up It's a small area 5 ft x 8 ft.

There seems to be a dip in the middle where the j bolt is. It also seems like the concrete is raised up on the edges by the sonnet tube.

What's the best and/or easiest way to correct this? Should I grind or chisel the concrete to level? Use self leveling concrete patch to fix? Use glavanized shims und the post brack to level out the brack? Other options?